»THE REDUX EDITION MENU 2017« The Restaurant Gastrologik in Stockholm is owned by Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr. »The potato is worth exactly as much as the truffle, it is not nature that decides what´s good or bad, it’s you and me« – this is the reduction and the cornerstone for the philosophy of the two chefs. For our current menu they have selected a »Swedish flavored« recipe, which completes the charming restaurant-managerin & sommelière Hanna Wessman with an exciting and classic wine tip. »Tack för det!«
[BY JACOB HOLMSTRÖM]
big pikeperch (around 1kg)
small new potatoes
of fresh juniper
ramson- & chives flowers
Swedish anchovies from »Grebbestad«
Fillet the perch, remove the skin and cut the backloins into 4 portions. Salt them gently and put aside.
Smoke all the fish cuttings with juniper branches for 2 good hours.
Put the smoked fish cuttings together with the drained anchovie fillets in a saucepan along with cold water, a few stalks of dill and onion. Let simmer for 1-2 hours, then strain and reduce.
Smoke (cold) the filets of perch for 1 hour using the same branches as for the fish cuttings.
Cook potatoes in the whey until tender and cut them into slices. Brush with butter and put aside (keep warm).
Roast the perch fillets gently with butter in a pan. Season lightly with salt if they have reached the desired doneness.
Heat the smoked fish stock in a small pot, add the »juice« of the anchovies and complete with browned butter.
Place the potato slices on a plate, place the fish on top and pour the sauce. Garnished with wild garlic and chive blossoms and sliced dill sticks.
ANCHOVIES FROM »GREBBESTAD«
Grebbestad is one of the most popular seaside resorts on the west coast of Sweden. Already in the 19th century developed trade, the shipping industry, the canning industry and fishing, timber and grain were shipped. Around 1870, a canning factory was established under the Stöberg.
The Swedish »ansjovis« of Grebbestad are rather different to Mediterranean anchovies. These little sprats are a basic ingredient for the well-known and popular Swedish casserole »Janssons frestelse« (»Janssons temptation«).
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND...
TOP CHEFS ARE ARTISTS!
Their delicious dishes are artworks, created on the basis of their skills, their creativity and their intuition. Mostly they’re using their recipes as suggestions ore helpful reminders. Some of the published recipes are unworked originals [copies] of the chefs, written in form of notes. And exactly these one, primarily are meant to be a source of inspiration for your practical experiments »at the stove« and should not be regarded as step-by-step cooking instructions.
[BY HANNA WESSMAN – RESTAURANT MANAGER & HEAD SOMMELIER]
Chenin Blanc (Pineau de la Loire)
Clay with sand, schist.
AGE OF VINES
50 years old
chalking (every 3 years).
Hand picked with selection on the vine, 3 sortings;
Beginning of October 2006.
Light and slow pressing;
12 hours clearing of the must;
2 month fermentation with indigenous yeast.
12 months on lees in oak barrels.
CHATEAU DES VAULTS & LES VINS DOMAINE DU CLOSEL
A HISTORY OF EXCELLENCE AND A DYNASTY OF WOMEN WINEMAKERS
//QUOTE: EVELYNE DE PONTBRIAND
Wine production in Savennières dates back to Roman times. During the Middle Ages, monasteries and prominent families of Angers noticed the outstanding quality of these vineyards. They produced wine and exported it mainly to England and to the Netherlands in exchange for wool and spices.
We have archives of the Château des Vaults and the existence of a vineyard and wine production dating back from 1495. Throughout the centuries, the vines have never stopped producing world-class wines always exported. The property was in the hands of upper class families from Angers and the prestigious family of ship owners: Walsh, Count de Serrant. Later, in the 19th century, the family of Emmanuel, comte de Las Cases, Napoleon’s biographer, inherited the estate. Since that day, the Château des Vaults and its vineyards have been managed by the descendants of the count de Las Cases.
A line of women winemakers was born, starting with Marque du Closel. At the next generation, Michèle Bazin de Jessey developed the vineyard image abroad under the new domain name: »Les vins Domaine Closel«. It is presently her daughter -Evelyne de Pontbriand- who runs the property.
FROM EVELYNE DE PONTBRIAND'S STANDPOINT
Savennières is a plateau of schist with steep slopes called coteaux, facing the Loire and a flat surface covered by aeolian sands. Small valleys or ravines called Coulées, that are perpendicular to the Loire, cut this plateau. Coulee de Serrant is the best known, but there is also the Roche aux Moines and Clos du Papillon and more: These Coulées each have a south-south west side which is an exceptional exposure for a vineyard, which benefits from the highest amount of daylight and the heat of the day and the evening.
We follow the principles of Natural Agriculture. We produce certified organic wines with biodynamic practices (certified since 2015). Biodynamic agriculture takes nature as a whole to produce food without damaging the ability for the next generations and to achieve the same objective even trying to improve this capacity. The soil is the most important component in this type of agriculture. As a matter of fact, it life is depends upon the soil on earth, in fact even only from the first meter of soil. The plant is accompanied in its growth and production.
TERROIR, GRAPE & OUR SIGNATURE
There are three types of terroirs (soil, exposure, light and water) in Savennières: schist hills (coteaux), schist and sandstone plateau (with sand) and the shale and volcanic rocks coulées (little valleys or ravine). We have these three types of terroirs in our estate: the coteaux constitute a group of parcels that we harvest for our Savennières »La Jalousie«. Our Plateau is called the »Caillardières« and our Coulée is the »Clos du Papillon« (which we share with Florent Baumard). Our vineyard covers 15 ha. The important point that distinguishes our wines is obviously the terroir, but also the harvest date which is the signature of the house. Our grape for Savennières is only Chenin blanc.
There is a long tradition of sweet wines in Savennières, tradition that has almost disappeared in favor of dry wines. Harvests were therefore late enough for the famous botrytis. We continued with relatively late harvesting with botrytis but to produce dry wines, which have a fairly high alcohol content. This style (dry with botrytis) is unusual in dry white wines. It also exist in the Jura wines, made with Savagnin grape varietal that is form the same family as Chenin blanc, with thick skins as well. This is probably what makes Savennières sometimes difficult to understand for newcomers.
THE REDUX EDITION MENU 2017
[LINCHPIN.CLUB FEAT. FAVE RESTAURANTS]
The completely awakended Nature has already created its exciting and eatable masterpieces. Everything is blooming, growing and prospering.
The menu presents »signature-dishes« of trendy and prestigious restaurants and their great chefs & teams – you will see, marvel and learn…
Once again, the sommeliers and wine experts of the respective restaurants provides inspiring wine recommendations for exciting »food- & wine pairings«.
A good time for everyone out there!
And what will you eat today?