»MENU ACROSS EUROPE« An exciting dish for cold days, which not only looks damn good, but also promises a taste of unusual pleasures. Chef Mart Klaas from the restaurant ART PRIORI in Tallinn/Estonia, is the creator of this culinary masterpiece. A particular feature is certainly the use and preparation of a lichen species, of which we had previously heard before. But most of us have probably never met this moss in their cooking pots, up to now…
[BY MART KLAAS]
Barbarie duck breast
white port wine
dry white wine
Clean the duck breast and prick the skin with a knife.
Place the duck into a cold pan – skin side down – and start to render the fat slowly. While rendering, remove the fat from the pan using a paper towel, to keep the pan dry.
If the skin is nice and crispy, turn it over and fry the other side for 2 minutes. Season generously, then finish cooking in the oven on 180°C for about 3 minutes.
Next, take a large pot with a lid, place hay in the bottom of the pot, place the duck on the hay and set fire to the hay [just do it in a well ventilated area!]. Close the lid and allow to smoke the meat for 2 minutes.
Wash the rowanberries. Heat up the water, add sugar and the rowanberries. Boil for about 5 minutes.
Pour the berries with the syrup in a jar. Keep aside until you need it.
Clean the lichen of any debris or soiling and boil it in water for about 20 minutes to soften it.
Blend the rowanberry vinegar and rowanberry sirup [use the sirup from the rowanberry compote]. Note: In the restaurant we prepare our own rowanberry vinegar, but you can also use a ready-made product.
Strain the lichen through a sieve and put them into the marinade. Allow to marinate at least overnight.
Roast the bones in the oven for 20 minutes on 210°C. Next, place in a large pot, cover with cold water and simmer until it is reduced to 2/3 of quantity.
Strain through a fine mesh. Heat up the wines and calvados until boiling and reduce to 2/3.
Add the prepared broth [stock] and peppercorns to the reduced wines and simmer for about 15 minutes. Then strain through a fine sieve to remove the peppercorns.
Melt butter in a small pot. Pour the liquid butter in small steps into the sauce base, while whisking the sauce constantly at the same time. Thereby the sauce will thickens. Season with salt and sugar.
FINISHING & PLATING
Heat up the rowanberries with sirup.
Cut the duck breasts half lengthwise and heat up the sauce.
Place a piece of duck breast on each plate, add small pieces of lichen and spread some rowanberries over the top.
Add some thin slices of truffle [using a truffle slicer]. Finish with some spoons of the sauce.
There are around 25,000 kinds of lichen [moss] worldwide and the oldest use of lichens is that of food. Certain lichens were cooked in history especially in times of distress, or used as a flour supplement. In Canada some lichens were known as »tripes de roche« [rock tripe]. In Japan the »Iwatake« [Umbilicaria esculenta] is considered a delicacy and is used as soup or salad. Some types of lichens are also used for alcohol production.
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND...
TOP CHEFS ARE ARTISTS!
Their delicious dishes are artworks, created on the basis of their skills, their creativity and their intuition. Mostly they’re using their recipes as suggestions ore helpful reminders. Some of the published recipes are unworked originals [copies] of the chefs, written in form of notes. These are the ones, that primarily are meant to be a source of inspiration for your practical experiments »at the stove« and should not be regarded as step-by-step cooking instructions.
[BY DMITRI ZABOLOTNY]
MENU ACROSS EUROPE
[LINCHPIN.CLUB FEAT. FAVE RESTAURANTS | WINTER 2016/17]
For the second time, at the end of the year, we want to thank our guests and readers with a especially menu, interesting recipes and exciting wine recommendations.
For this we have asked chefs & teams of european top-restaurants for recipes of their signature dishes for the winter season.
The result is a unique menu with 11 dishes from Denmark, Germany, Liechtenstein, Italy, Poland, Portugal, Estonia, Croatia, Serbia, Austria and Greece.
A good time for everyone out there!
And what will you eat today?